2023, Domaine de la Vougeraie, GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, 'Les Evocelles', Magnum (1500ml)The 2023 Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles includes 30% whole bunch, and that works to its advantage, lending a "coolness" and "spiciness" to the mixture of red and black fruitfar better than the Gevrey Village. The palate is medium bodied with fine tannins, good weight and commendable persistency, lightly spiced with a dash of cracked black pepper and Earl Grey toward the finish. This should age well in bottle. 90 92 Neal Martin, Vinous (2024). 20%

black cherries

tobacco leaf and bouquet garni with a waft of chargrill

the 2020 has good energy and fruit pushed forward

dried roses

this has a core of cherries and raspberries alongside savoury olive and oak elements with round

powdery tannin

*** 93-95 Jasper Morris MW

The 2020 is the smallest production since 2000 with an equivalent of 35

a touch tense still but there's excellent sculpting here and lots of life

The vineyard is on a gradual slope

Silky and intensely aromatic

with a nuanced and perfumed nose